Hello Hello Hello!
I’m back again! This will be the last post before we get into actually sewing the coat. WE will discus specific notions and interfacing as it applies to tailored coats. My coat Vogue 1467 is actually completed but I am still providing information prior to us actually beginning to sew the coat.
There is lots of talk always on what kind of interfacing to use, quite frankly it can be daunting on what kind to use.
If you are sewing a tailored coat i.e; a very structure bodice, collar, shoulders, and back it is good to use hair canvas so your coat holds it shape and will last you years to come. Additionally your pattern will tell you if you should use sew-in interfacing or fusible interfacing.
For me it would depend on the designer’s suggestions. I do try to follow their suggestions as your coat will come out a certain way. However, if you are using a less formal type of coat pattern(not tailored) fusible interfacing is fine. However, be sure to shrink your fabric PRIOR to interfacing as the heat and steam could shrink you fabric namely wool.
Another thing I do is I take scraps of fabric and test with different fabrics.. of course if it is too stiff the interfacing will not be appropriate for the fabric to light the coats structure will not last.
Also in this photo you see some white thread basted through the fabric.. This is a spool of basting thread I purchased from Wawak. I love it because it has a light wax on it and its tangle free, this huge spool cost about $5.00 but its worth it and it lasts a long time.
For lighter weight wool I use an interfacing similar to this that I purchase from Mood at their New York Store
This interfacing coming in a huge huge bolt and its 60″ wide plus its $3.00 a yard! I use this for my shirts, some jackets.. it presses extremely well and is very fluid. I would not though use this for tailoring it is not heavy enough.
Another amazing tool is this FriXion Erasable Pen it goes on smoothly and you iron over it an poof the marks disappear. I used it when I was doing the top stitching on the top of the jacket.
I also used these top stitching needles, the needle creates sharp precision top stitches. As well as the most essential tool is a Point Presser / Clapper. When its time to get sharp points you will need this as well as a tailored ham.
By the Way the $100 Mood Card Contest is extended until November 4th and will be announced on the 5th 🙂
Here is the GiveAway!