October, 2015 - Curvy Girls are Chic

Contests/ October 29, 2015October 29, 2015

Notions, Interfacing, and more Notions, oh my!

Hello Hello Hello!

I’m back again! This will be the last post before we get into actually sewing the coat. WE will discus specific notions and interfacing as it applies to tailored coats. My coat Vogue 1467 is actually completed but I am still providing information prior to us actually beginning to sew the coat.

There is lots of talk always on what kind of interfacing to use, quite frankly it can be daunting on what kind to use.

If you are sewing a tailored coat i.e; a very structure bodice, collar, shoulders, and back it is good to use hair canvas so your coat holds it shape and will last you years to come. Additionally your pattern will tell you if you should use sew-in interfacing or fusible interfacing.

For me it would depend on the designer’s suggestions. I do try to follow their suggestions as your coat will come out a certain way. However, if you are using a less formal type of coat pattern(not tailored) fusible interfacing is fine. However, be sure to shrink your fabric PRIOR to interfacing as the heat and steam could shrink you fabric namely wool.

Another thing I do is I take scraps of fabric and test with different fabrics.. of course if it is too stiff the interfacing will not be appropriate for the fabric to light the coats structure will not last.

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Also in this photo you see some white thread basted through the fabric.. This is a spool of basting thread I purchased from Wawak. I love it because it has a light wax on it and its tangle free, this huge spool cost about $5.00 but its worth it and it lasts a long time.

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For lighter weight wool I use an interfacing similar to this that I purchase from Mood at their New York Store

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This interfacing coming in a huge huge bolt and its 60″ wide plus its $3.00 a yard! I use this for my shirts, some jackets.. it presses extremely well and is very fluid. I would not though use this for tailoring it is not heavy enough.

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Another amazing tool is this FriXion Erasable Pen it goes on smoothly and you iron over it an poof the marks disappear. I used it when I was doing the top stitching on the top of the jacket.

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I also used these top stitching needles, the needle creates sharp precision top stitches. As well as the most essential tool is a Point Presser / Clapper. When its time to get sharp points you will need this as well as a tailored ham.

By the Way the $100 Mood Card Contest is extended until November 4th and will be announced on the 5th 🙂

Happy Sewing!

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Here is the GiveAway!

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Curvy Girls are Chic/ October 25, 2015October 26, 2015

To Muslin or not Muslin, Pattern Layout, and Cutting

Hello!

This is week three of Vogue 1467 Sew-Along, if you are just joining us you can read week 1 and week 2. This week we will talk about creating a muslin or not, your pattern layout, guidelines and cutting.

Create a Muslin or Not

I generally do not create a muslin for my garments, I create so many garments a week it would just be pointless for me to do so. I have sewn so much for my body I pretty much know what will fit and not fit. I also have a tendency to use some patterns multiple times like I have one go to pants pattern — because that is the most challenging for me.

My Go To Pattern, its generous in the legs because I have a problem with them but yet its slimming and flattering. I have made this pattern for a few clients too out of army print fabric.

However, my shape is a bit unique as my upper bust and lower bust are significantly different in inches and it often leads to the bodice being too large but fitted in the bust area. So to solve that problem I use the finished measurements from my pattern and measure against myself.

For example, lets say the finished measurement is a 25″ and my bust is 20″.. those 5 inches satisfies my need and ease allowance that I would like. I also create a muslin when its an independent pattern I have not used before.

Pattern Layout, Guidelines, and Cutting

This is the lay out prior to cutting, I lay all of my pieces on the fabric first to make sure they fit and the placement is correct. I do not trace patterns! I have never learned that or did it when I went to school. We cut our patterns and I will continue that method its easy for me. I am also sure that I cut all of my pieces in the same direction unless a piece is cut on the bias like the upper collar. Since the upper collar shrinks and molds to a semi rounded state it needs to be cut on the bias.

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Excuse the undone nails this was weeks ago lol once you pay your pieces you then want to be sure they are properly on the grain by measuring from the grainline to the end of salvage as shown above.

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Her are the cut pieces, as you notice piece #6 is not cut, why because remember in earlier posts I mentioned that this fabric could be used on two sides..

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Well I tried it and did not like it so I stayed with the solid color.

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As of this post my coat is completed, I got delayed with machine issues hence why this post is delayed. My next post will be on October 29th. I have also decided to extend the contest by week so the Winner will be announced on November 5th, versus the 29th of October as originally announced..

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Until next post! Huggs and Kisses!

DIY/ October 15, 2015November 6, 2015

All About Fabric Choices – Vogue 1467 and a SURPRISE!

Hi!

Today we will speak about fabric selection for your coat. Coats are a necessity depending upon what area of the country you live in. I was born in Jersey and therefore it was much needed! I moved to the District of Columbia area with thoughts that I would escape some of that need.. Surprisingly enough our winters are just as bad as New Jersey..

Anyway I have a coat making addiction! I love all kinds of coats, and I love color in a coat! While Black, Camel, Red coats are needed in your wardrobe there are so many other colors you can add to your wardrobe to spice it up!

Last week I mentioned a few fabrics I was using. A brown wool and cashmere fabric which resulted in this coat which is Vogue 9136:

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I had to sit it down for a minute LOL the buttonholes were a challenge as well as aligning the buttons correctly. The coat is very heavy and warm so I got hot quick LOL. Besides I had to begin this Sew-Along and take all my photos so I could pre-write the posts (ahh yeah that has ot happened lol.)

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So here are some of my other favorite fabrics many of these, well all of these besides the Nassau Blue Italian Wool and Cashmere I got last year on Mood’s weekly sales.

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I love love love the two fabrics above the feel nice and look nice! I have plans for them both!

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The top one is a “Warm Yellow Textured Woven” it is 100% Wool — for this fabric I am considering Butterick 6140.

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The bottom one is an “Italian Donna Karen Sunshine Wool Double Cloth Crepe” whew try to say that one 3 times LOL it is also 100% Wool! For this coat I am considering this pattern Butterick 6255.

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And lastly this pink fabric.. yes ma’am pink! This is a boiled wool I obtained from one of the Fabric Stores in the Garment District of NYC.. Let me tell you there is simply no other joy than shopping in about 50 different fabric stores in NY — with my favorite being Mood! The wool guys there know me by name LOL I love visiting them and seeing Swatch as well!

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All of these fabrics can be used for just about any coat you can use fusible interfacing or non fusible. Because of the weights I am not sure if Hair Canvas would work with these.. While the fabric is warm it’s not very heavy.. I would need to drape the two and see how they would drape and feel.

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We will speak more about Interfacing in Week 3

Next week we will talk about the pattern layout and should you create a muslin or not..

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As I promised a big Surprise! In conjunction with Mood Fabrics I will be giving away a $100 gift card to their fabulous store!

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How can you win! Fill out the raffle entry below following all the directions and ONE random winner is drawn in Week 3!

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Here is the GiveAway!

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Entry

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Curvy Girls are Chic/ October 9, 2015October 16, 2015

Vogue 1467 Pea Coat Sew Along Sew Along

Hello Fam!

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Its that time again to prepare for the Fall / Winter Seasons (2015)! Well I have already begun, I completed one coat last night Vogue 9136 in the most beautiful Chocolate wool/cashmere. Just need to find buttons and I will post that later.. The fabric I used is sampled below..

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This will be my first time hosting MY OWN Sew Along – there are quite a few others doing this as well but I want to try my hand at this pattern.

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I was looking for a traditional “pea coat” pattern for a while and I was uber excited when I saw this pattern V1467 in July designed by Ann Klein and distributed by Vogue Patterns ! My sew along will go through a few weeks of sewing this pattern with a final reveal of the coat and the pants which are contained within the pattern.

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I have a schedule I set up, I will post a part of the Sew Along every Wednesday beginning October 15. Right now I have a schedule of about 7 Weeks.. My coat will be completed long before that but I just wanted to give everyone the opportunity to follow along as I create my coat!

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Here is the schedule:

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Week One 10/15 – All about Fabric Choices
Week Two – 10/22 – To Muslin or not Muslin / Pattern Layout and Cutting
Week Three – 10/29 – Notion, Interfacing, Notions, oh my!
Week Four – 11 /4 – Sewing the Coat Part – 1
Week Five – 11/11 – Sewing the Coat Part – 2
Week Six – 11/18 – Sewing the Coat Part – 3 and Finishing
Week Seven – 11/25 – The Big Reveal

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Curvy Girls are Chic

DIY Fashion Blogger with the passion of sewing specializing in fashion for Curvy Girls.

Month: October 2015

Notions, Interfacing, and more Notions, oh my!

To Muslin or not Muslin, Pattern Layout, and Cutting

All About Fabric Choices – Vogue 1467 and a SURPRISE!

Vogue 1467 Pea Coat Sew Along Sew Along