Tag: Vogue

Notions, Interfacing, and more Notions, oh my!

Hello Hello Hello!

I’m back again! This will be the last post before we get into actually sewing the coat.  WE will discus specific notions and interfacing as it applies to tailored coats.  My coat Vogue 1467 is actually completed but I am still providing information prior to us actually beginning to sew the coat.

There is lots of talk always on what kind of interfacing to use, quite frankly it can be daunting on what kind to use.

If you are sewing a tailored coat i.e; a very structure bodice, collar, shoulders, and back it is good to use hair canvas so your coat holds it shape and will last you years to come.  Additionally your pattern will tell you if you should use sew-in interfacing or fusible interfacing.

For me it would depend on the designer’s suggestions.  I do try to follow their suggestions as your coat will come out a certain way. However, if you are using a less formal type of coat pattern(not tailored) fusible interfacing is fine. However, be sure to shrink your fabric PRIOR to interfacing as the heat and steam could shrink you fabric namely wool.

Another thing I do is I take scraps of fabric and test with different fabrics.. of course if it is too stiff the interfacing will not be appropriate for the fabric to light the coats structure will not last.

Front Facing with Canvas Hair

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Also in this photo you see some white thread basted through the fabric.. This is a spool of basting thread I purchased from Wawak. I love it because it has a light wax on it and its tangle free, this huge spool cost about $5.00 but its worth it and it lasts a long time.

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For lighter weight wool I use an interfacing similar to this that I purchase from Mood at their New York Store

Woven Interfacing

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This interfacing coming in a huge huge bolt and its 60″ wide plus its $3.00 a yard! I use this for my shirts, some jackets.. it presses extremely well and is very fluid. I would not though use this for tailoring it is not heavy enough.

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Another amazing tool is this FriXion Erasable Pen it goes on smoothly and you iron over it an poof the marks disappear.  I used it when I was doing the top stitching on the top of the jacket.

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I also used these top stitching needles, the needle creates sharp precision top stitches. As well as the most essential tool is a Point Presser / Clapper.  When its time to get sharp points you will need this as well as a tailored ham.

By the Way the $100 Mood Card Contest is extended until November 4th and will be announced on the 5th 🙂

Happy Sewing!

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Here is the GiveAway!

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To Muslin or not Muslin, Pattern Layout, and Cutting


This is week three of Vogue 1467 Sew-Along, if you are just joining us you can read week 1 and week 2. This week we will talk about creating a muslin or not, your pattern layout, guidelines and cutting.

Create a Muslin or Not

I generally do not create a muslin for my garments, I create so many garments a week it would just be pointless for me to do so.  I have sewn so much for my body I pretty much know what will fit and not fit. I also have a tendency to use some patterns multiple times like I have one go to pants pattern — because that is the most challenging for me.

My Go To Pattern, its generous in the legs because I have a problem with them but yet its slimming and flattering. I have made this pattern for a few clients too out of army print fabric.New Look Misses' Pants & Shorts 6055

However, my shape is a bit unique as my upper bust and lower bust are significantly different in inches and it often leads to the bodice being too large but fitted in the bust area. So to solve that problem I use the finished measurements from my pattern and measure against myself.

For example, lets say the finished measurement is a 25″ and my bust is 20″.. those 5 inches satisfies my need and ease allowance that I would like. I also create a muslin when its an independent pattern I have not used before.

Pattern Layout, Guidelines, and Cutting

Vogue 1467 Pattern Layout

This is the lay out prior to cutting, I lay all of my pieces on the fabric first to make sure they fit and the placement is correct. I do not trace patterns! I have never learned that or did it when I went to school. We cut our patterns and I will continue that method its easy for me. I am also sure that I cut all of my pieces in the same direction unless a piece is cut on the bias like the upper collar. Since the upper collar shrinks and molds to a semi rounded state it needs to be cut on the bias.

To Muslin or not Muslin, Pattern Layout, and Cutting

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Excuse the undone nails this was weeks ago lol once you pay your pieces you then want to be sure they are properly on the grain by measuring from the grainline to the end of salvage as shown above.

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Cut out Pieces Vogue 1467

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Her are the cut pieces, as you notice piece #6 is not cut, why because remember in earlier posts I mentioned that this fabric could be used on two sides..

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Wool and Cashmere Fabric

Well I tried it and did not like it so I stayed with the solid color.





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As of this post my coat is completed, I got delayed with machine issues hence why this post is delayed.  My next post will be on October 29th.  I have also decided to extend the contest by week so the Winner will be announced on November 5th, versus the 29th of October as originally announced..

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Until next post! Huggs and Kisses!

Of course when I go to NY I can never stay on course with my list.. I always vear away and purchase other and extra fabric lol the prices are just fabulous.. Anyway this leopard print fabric was obtained at MOOD Fabrics.. Its a beautiful crisp hand knit, but it is a bit on the thin side.  I purchase another piece blended knit for the lining.  The pattern was easy and it sewed quickly.. more details below.. Soon as I get to wear it I will post a photo..lol

Project Review Detailed
Pattern Description: One style of pullover, close-fitting dress.  Designer – Tracy Reese
Pattern Used: Vogue 1314
Pattern Sizing: Cut a 12 for the top, 14 for the skirt
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done? Yes, just like it!
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the instructions were clear.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Nothing it constructed well
Fabric Used: 100% Boiled wool
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Had to alter the hip area
Would you sew it again? Maybe, I only wanted the pattern for this particular fabric.

Grey Stripe Romper V8813

This is a Throwback Thursday Repost.. I originally posted on 9/5/2013 — Reposting today as I am wearing the dress again!

Original: 9/5/2013 One of the dresses I made finally getting to wear it. The most flattering thing today is when my sewing teacher saw it and me she was shocked I made it lol lots and lots of love from men who admired it as well as women .. #vogue #diy #seamstress #sewing #picstitch #Vogue8813

Pattern Description: Vogue
8813 MISSES’ DRESS: Pullover dress (semi-fitted through bust) has gathered
front extending into back collar, side front seams, draped lower side front
with pockets, and stitched hems. A: pleat and button trim on pockets. A and C:
narrow hem on cap sleeves.
Pattern Sizing: XS
– Small – Medium.
Did it look like the
photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
just like the photo!
Were the instructions
easy to follow?
 Yes for the most part, the pocket became a bit
complicated although the pattern says EASY.
What did you
particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
 The directions for the
Fabric Used: Two-sided
Jersey from www.lowestpricefabics.com
Pattern alterations
or any design changes you made
: No I cut down a size, I made a small
and it was very roomy.
Would you sew it
Would you recommend
it to others?
 Only if you have good commercial pattern reading skills.

Conclusion: Great
dress and I would sew this again!
Shoes: Michael Kors
Sunnies: Thomas Ford

This fabric was a dream to sew! It cuts with ease, drapes nice, does not slip when you stitch it or slip when the serger touches it. Its nice and soft and feels good on the body — has good body for sewing.

Project Review Detailed

Pattern Description: Very Easy Vogue Top (quarter and long sleeves), pants and skirt
Pattern Used: Vogue 8935
Pattern Sizing: I cut the 8 top and the 14 skirt adding about an inch in the hip line.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done? Yes, I would say so
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, the instructions were clear.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Nothing it constructed well

Fabric Used: Jersey knit with lycra from Chic Fashions fabric house
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Yes I used the shorter top with long sleeves
Would you sew it again? Maybe I am not sure why I would need two of these sets..

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