Curvy Girls are Chic

DIY/ December 31, 2015

Completed #Vogue 1467 Pea Coat Sew Along

Hi dolls and Happy New Year!

Yes this post is a long time coming! My Completed #Vogue 1467 Pea Coat Sew Along was finished long-ago but I was in a hunt for a photographer. I finally found one! My plan is to have quick photo shoots at least twice a month with 3 – 4 outfits each. That will put me at a regular posting schedule of at least twice a week!

Anyway here are the final photos.. it was a good day outside my complex for these — it was a bit nippy but my warm wool and cashmere kept this at bay as long as the wind did not blow LOL.

Now to point out the obvious and perhaps you don’t see it but I do.. the button is pulling on the bottom.. why because my silly tale sewed the closure button right through to the opposite side of the jacket through the pocket! I realized it AFTER I wore the jacket and could not put my hand completely in the pocket 🙁 I completely forgot to fix it prior to the photos :-(, so hence you have this mistake. But guess what? My coat is still fabulous, I fixed and I am wearing it LOL as well as onto other coats to make 🙂

I also made the top and pants too using Vogue 1436. I used the exact notions Vogue used for their shirt sample; the spring snaps, O-Rings, and the silver cord ends on the end of the neck ties! The Anorak Snap Tool Set (and a rubber mallet) was a bit difficult to find and I did find it at JoAnn’s after extensive research. The coat fabric is from Mood and I left links in previous posts, both the shirt and pants fabric came from G-Street. This shirt and pants were fun to make and would definitely use these patterns again.

Below you will see the rest of the photos.

Photos for Viewing!

XXMauhXXX

Boots are from COACH last year
Nail Color CHANEL Blue Satin Discontinued
Burberry Scarf

Curvy Girls are Chic/ December 5, 2015

Week 5 Vogue 1467 Coat Sew Along – Top Stitching

Hello Curvy Girl Fan..

I will not talk no more about my frustrations with my photos.. it’s just not happening unless I get married in the next few weeks OR I hire a photographer! The later is probably the cheapest route LOL No seriously I am picky to say the least but I also what to take photos with out a lot of drama or cheer leading — just snap my photo let me see!

Anywhoo so that answers why these posts are delayed.. Someone promised me they would be by to take my photos next week — lets hope because this sew along has gone one too long.

This will be the final installment before the big reveal.. I have not worn the jacket yet and I am anxious to wear it..

Today we will look at the top stitching, the collar, and finishing.

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Coat Top Stitching

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This coat has top stitching all along the seams, the pocket, back center, and side seams. This is a view of the back joined together with the top stitching. I have to say I am impressed with myself LOL This fabric was sooooo easy to work with and so forgiving. Basically I inserted my top stitch needle, marked the 1/4″ seams with my FriXion Erasable Pen and ruler, and sewed slowly.

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More Top stitching, Front Flap closes to the right.. the white thread you see is my basting thread that’s keeping the hair canvas in place.

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Top stitching and back belt prior to buttonholes and buttons

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Side View of Sleeve and Top stitching

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Coat Collar Attachment

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Collar after Pressing and Top Stitching

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Thanks for following!

Next post will be the complete coat and outfit 🙂

Mauh XXXX

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Curvy Girls are Chic/ November 12, 2015December 4, 2015

Week 4 Vogue 1467 Coat Sew Along – Coat Shell, Sleeves

Hey now! We are in Week 4 and down to our final three posts for Vogue 1467 Coat Sew Along whew! Today we will look at the outside construction Coat Shell, back belt, and the sleeves. Below you see the back construction of the jacket, the most challenging part is that triangle at the top which makes this pea coat very unique. Initially I set it in using the reversed side, I let it set for a day to see if I like it and I did not. I took it out and flipped it to the side you see now. Everything else was then top-stitched.

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Vogue 1467 Coat Shell

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Then you add the faux belt, button holes, and the buttons. If you notice the belt is not the same as the fabric, I thought it would be different if I lined the belt with the lining that I am using for the coat 🙂 No one says the pattern must be followed to the letter!

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Below you see the sleeve cap. I cut 2 x 12 strips and sewed them along with the sleeve.

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Vogue 1467 Coat Sleeves

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Inside Sleeve Cap Vogue 1467

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Cut the 2 x 12 strip from your interfacing (preferably non fusible)
Baste the strip to the top of the sleeve head
Sew long stitches from one notch to the other notch.]
Gather your sleeve spreading the gathers out evenly, steam press the sleeve head slightly to shrink it a bit. Then, pin into the armsyce. You will use lots and lots of pins — oh yeah they hurt when they stick you lol
Sew in your sleeve.

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My Lining came from Patron Fabrics in NYC they dont have a website but there is a good review on Yelp.

Wool and Cashmere Fabric Mood Fabrics. love love love their selections!

Contests/ November 6, 2015

Vogue 1467 — Pockets, HongKong Seams, and $100 Mood Fabric Winner!

Hey y’all! I’m back!

Before we get to talks the Vogue 1467 Coat SewAlong, Pockets, Hong Kong Seams,and the winner of the $100 Mood Fabric Winner. I just want to mention yesterday was a hot trip for me I got some kind of bug and it seems to have carried over to today yes today Friday.. I have barely eaten anything! I didn’t go to work on Thursday but I did manage to do a bit of work on Butterick 6255.

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I got the binding on the first part created the sleeves and inserted the zipper.. then I got tired..

Pockets

Anyway lets talk about Vogue 1467 this coat came out amazing and the fabric is amazing it is very forgiving as I took the top-stitch out a few times because I wanted it perfect. After a while I said it will be what it is… any way I completed the pockets and the Hong Kong Seam Binding …

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After I stitched the seams I tacked them down to the canvas hair.

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Front Left side .. the white threads are the basting stitched used with baste stitch thread

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Side Pocket after topstiching

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Bias Binding

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This is the strip of bias binding.. they actually had a pattern piece for this LOL and I actually cut the pattern piece and it was a waste! I wind up cutting my own instead..

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Yes its a bit wobbly I am still pleased with it nonetheless..

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Mood Gift Card Winner!

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And as promised the winner announced for the Mood $100 Gift Card!

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Here is the GiveAway!

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Entry

-Form

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Thank you all who entered more contests coming soon! And thank you Mood For Your Generous Donation!

Next week we will look at the lining, sleeves, and outside finishing 🙂

XXXMauh!

Contests/ October 29, 2015October 29, 2015

Notions, Interfacing, and more Notions, oh my!

Hello Hello Hello!

I’m back again! This will be the last post before we get into actually sewing the coat. WE will discus specific notions and interfacing as it applies to tailored coats. My coat Vogue 1467 is actually completed but I am still providing information prior to us actually beginning to sew the coat.

There is lots of talk always on what kind of interfacing to use, quite frankly it can be daunting on what kind to use.

If you are sewing a tailored coat i.e; a very structure bodice, collar, shoulders, and back it is good to use hair canvas so your coat holds it shape and will last you years to come. Additionally your pattern will tell you if you should use sew-in interfacing or fusible interfacing.

For me it would depend on the designer’s suggestions. I do try to follow their suggestions as your coat will come out a certain way. However, if you are using a less formal type of coat pattern(not tailored) fusible interfacing is fine. However, be sure to shrink your fabric PRIOR to interfacing as the heat and steam could shrink you fabric namely wool.

Another thing I do is I take scraps of fabric and test with different fabrics.. of course if it is too stiff the interfacing will not be appropriate for the fabric to light the coats structure will not last.

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Also in this photo you see some white thread basted through the fabric.. This is a spool of basting thread I purchased from Wawak. I love it because it has a light wax on it and its tangle free, this huge spool cost about $5.00 but its worth it and it lasts a long time.

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For lighter weight wool I use an interfacing similar to this that I purchase from Mood at their New York Store

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This interfacing coming in a huge huge bolt and its 60″ wide plus its $3.00 a yard! I use this for my shirts, some jackets.. it presses extremely well and is very fluid. I would not though use this for tailoring it is not heavy enough.

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Another amazing tool is this FriXion Erasable Pen it goes on smoothly and you iron over it an poof the marks disappear. I used it when I was doing the top stitching on the top of the jacket.

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I also used these top stitching needles, the needle creates sharp precision top stitches. As well as the most essential tool is a Point Presser / Clapper. When its time to get sharp points you will need this as well as a tailored ham.

By the Way the $100 Mood Card Contest is extended until November 4th and will be announced on the 5th 🙂

Happy Sewing!

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Here is the GiveAway!

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<div id=”pgt80950232689pgt” class=”pgtContainpgt”><a href=”//giveawaytools2.com/giveaway.php?sk=80950232689″ rel=”nofollow” target=”_BLANK2″>Entry</a><script type=”text/javascript” src=”//giveawaytools.com/wid/embed.php?sk=80950232689″>-Form

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Entry -Form

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Curvy Girls are Chic/ October 25, 2015October 26, 2015

To Muslin or not Muslin, Pattern Layout, and Cutting

Hello!

This is week three of Vogue 1467 Sew-Along, if you are just joining us you can read week 1 and week 2. This week we will talk about creating a muslin or not, your pattern layout, guidelines and cutting.

Create a Muslin or Not

I generally do not create a muslin for my garments, I create so many garments a week it would just be pointless for me to do so. I have sewn so much for my body I pretty much know what will fit and not fit. I also have a tendency to use some patterns multiple times like I have one go to pants pattern — because that is the most challenging for me.

My Go To Pattern, its generous in the legs because I have a problem with them but yet its slimming and flattering. I have made this pattern for a few clients too out of army print fabric.

However, my shape is a bit unique as my upper bust and lower bust are significantly different in inches and it often leads to the bodice being too large but fitted in the bust area. So to solve that problem I use the finished measurements from my pattern and measure against myself.

For example, lets say the finished measurement is a 25″ and my bust is 20″.. those 5 inches satisfies my need and ease allowance that I would like. I also create a muslin when its an independent pattern I have not used before.

Pattern Layout, Guidelines, and Cutting

This is the lay out prior to cutting, I lay all of my pieces on the fabric first to make sure they fit and the placement is correct. I do not trace patterns! I have never learned that or did it when I went to school. We cut our patterns and I will continue that method its easy for me. I am also sure that I cut all of my pieces in the same direction unless a piece is cut on the bias like the upper collar. Since the upper collar shrinks and molds to a semi rounded state it needs to be cut on the bias.

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Excuse the undone nails this was weeks ago lol once you pay your pieces you then want to be sure they are properly on the grain by measuring from the grainline to the end of salvage as shown above.

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Her are the cut pieces, as you notice piece #6 is not cut, why because remember in earlier posts I mentioned that this fabric could be used on two sides..

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Well I tried it and did not like it so I stayed with the solid color.

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As of this post my coat is completed, I got delayed with machine issues hence why this post is delayed. My next post will be on October 29th. I have also decided to extend the contest by week so the Winner will be announced on November 5th, versus the 29th of October as originally announced..

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Until next post! Huggs and Kisses!

DIY Fashion Blogger with the passion of sewing specializing in fashion for Curvy Girls.

Author: Curvy Girls are Chic

Completed #Vogue 1467 Pea Coat Sew Along

Photos for Viewing!

Week 5 Vogue 1467 Coat Sew Along – Top Stitching

Hello Curvy Girl Fan..

Coat Top Stitching

Coat Collar Attachment

Week 4 Vogue 1467 Coat Sew Along – Coat Shell, Sleeves

Vogue 1467 Coat Shell

Vogue 1467 Coat Sleeves

Vogue 1467 — Pockets, HongKong Seams, and $100 Mood Fabric Winner!

Pockets

Bias Binding

Mood Gift Card Winner!

Notions, Interfacing, and more Notions, oh my!

To Muslin or not Muslin, Pattern Layout, and Cutting