Curvy Girls are Chic - DIY Fashion Blogger with the passion of sewing specializing in fashion for Curvy Girls.

Contests/ October 29, 2015October 29, 2015

Notions, Interfacing, and more Notions, oh my!

Hello Hello Hello!

I’m back again! This will be the last post before we get into actually sewing the coat. WE will discus specific notions and interfacing as it applies to tailored coats. My coat Vogue 1467 is actually completed but I am still providing information prior to us actually beginning to sew the coat.

There is lots of talk always on what kind of interfacing to use, quite frankly it can be daunting on what kind to use.

If you are sewing a tailored coat i.e; a very structure bodice, collar, shoulders, and back it is good to use hair canvas so your coat holds it shape and will last you years to come. Additionally your pattern will tell you if you should use sew-in interfacing or fusible interfacing.

For me it would depend on the designer’s suggestions. I do try to follow their suggestions as your coat will come out a certain way. However, if you are using a less formal type of coat pattern(not tailored) fusible interfacing is fine. However, be sure to shrink your fabric PRIOR to interfacing as the heat and steam could shrink you fabric namely wool.

Another thing I do is I take scraps of fabric and test with different fabrics.. of course if it is too stiff the interfacing will not be appropriate for the fabric to light the coats structure will not last.

[spacer height=”20px”]

Also in this photo you see some white thread basted through the fabric.. This is a spool of basting thread I purchased from Wawak. I love it because it has a light wax on it and its tangle free, this huge spool cost about $5.00 but its worth it and it lasts a long time.

[spacer height=”20px”]

For lighter weight wool I use an interfacing similar to this that I purchase from Mood at their New York Store

[spacer height=”20px”].

This interfacing coming in a huge huge bolt and its 60″ wide plus its $3.00 a yard! I use this for my shirts, some jackets.. it presses extremely well and is very fluid. I would not though use this for tailoring it is not heavy enough.

[spacer height=”20px”]

Another amazing tool is this FriXion Erasable Pen it goes on smoothly and you iron over it an poof the marks disappear. I used it when I was doing the top stitching on the top of the jacket.

[spacer height=”20px”]

I also used these top stitching needles, the needle creates sharp precision top stitches. As well as the most essential tool is a Point Presser / Clapper. When its time to get sharp points you will need this as well as a tailored ham.

By the Way the $100 Mood Card Contest is extended until November 4th and will be announced on the 5th 🙂

Happy Sewing!

[spacer height=”20px”]

Here is the GiveAway!

[spacer height=”20px”]

<div id=”pgt80950232689pgt” class=”pgtContainpgt”><a href=”//giveawaytools2.com/giveaway.php?sk=80950232689″ rel=”nofollow” target=”_BLANK2″>Entry</a><script type=”text/javascript” src=”//giveawaytools.com/wid/embed.php?sk=80950232689″>-Form

[spacer height=”20px”]

[box]

Entry -Form

[/box]

[spacer height=”20px”]

Curvy Girls are Chic/ October 25, 2015October 26, 2015

To Muslin or not Muslin, Pattern Layout, and Cutting

Hello!

This is week three of Vogue 1467 Sew-Along, if you are just joining us you can read week 1 and week 2. This week we will talk about creating a muslin or not, your pattern layout, guidelines and cutting.

Create a Muslin or Not

I generally do not create a muslin for my garments, I create so many garments a week it would just be pointless for me to do so. I have sewn so much for my body I pretty much know what will fit and not fit. I also have a tendency to use some patterns multiple times like I have one go to pants pattern — because that is the most challenging for me.

My Go To Pattern, its generous in the legs because I have a problem with them but yet its slimming and flattering. I have made this pattern for a few clients too out of army print fabric.

However, my shape is a bit unique as my upper bust and lower bust are significantly different in inches and it often leads to the bodice being too large but fitted in the bust area. So to solve that problem I use the finished measurements from my pattern and measure against myself.

For example, lets say the finished measurement is a 25″ and my bust is 20″.. those 5 inches satisfies my need and ease allowance that I would like. I also create a muslin when its an independent pattern I have not used before.

Pattern Layout, Guidelines, and Cutting

This is the lay out prior to cutting, I lay all of my pieces on the fabric first to make sure they fit and the placement is correct. I do not trace patterns! I have never learned that or did it when I went to school. We cut our patterns and I will continue that method its easy for me. I am also sure that I cut all of my pieces in the same direction unless a piece is cut on the bias like the upper collar. Since the upper collar shrinks and molds to a semi rounded state it needs to be cut on the bias.

[spacer height=”20px”]

Excuse the undone nails this was weeks ago lol once you pay your pieces you then want to be sure they are properly on the grain by measuring from the grainline to the end of salvage as shown above.

[spacer height=”20px”]

Her are the cut pieces, as you notice piece #6 is not cut, why because remember in earlier posts I mentioned that this fabric could be used on two sides..

[spacer height=”20px”]

Well I tried it and did not like it so I stayed with the solid color.

[spacer height=”20px”]

As of this post my coat is completed, I got delayed with machine issues hence why this post is delayed. My next post will be on October 29th. I have also decided to extend the contest by week so the Winner will be announced on November 5th, versus the 29th of October as originally announced..

[spacer height=”20px”]

Until next post! Huggs and Kisses!

DIY/ October 15, 2015November 6, 2015

All About Fabric Choices – Vogue 1467 and a SURPRISE!

Hi!

Today we will speak about fabric selection for your coat. Coats are a necessity depending upon what area of the country you live in. I was born in Jersey and therefore it was much needed! I moved to the District of Columbia area with thoughts that I would escape some of that need.. Surprisingly enough our winters are just as bad as New Jersey..

Anyway I have a coat making addiction! I love all kinds of coats, and I love color in a coat! While Black, Camel, Red coats are needed in your wardrobe there are so many other colors you can add to your wardrobe to spice it up!

Last week I mentioned a few fabrics I was using. A brown wool and cashmere fabric which resulted in this coat which is Vogue 9136:

[spacer height=”20px”]

I had to sit it down for a minute LOL the buttonholes were a challenge as well as aligning the buttons correctly. The coat is very heavy and warm so I got hot quick LOL. Besides I had to begin this Sew-Along and take all my photos so I could pre-write the posts (ahh yeah that has ot happened lol.)

[spacer height=”20px”]

So here are some of my other favorite fabrics many of these, well all of these besides the Nassau Blue Italian Wool and Cashmere I got last year on Mood’s weekly sales.

[spacer height=”20px”]

I love love love the two fabrics above the feel nice and look nice! I have plans for them both!

[spacer height=”20px”]

The top one is a “Warm Yellow Textured Woven” it is 100% Wool — for this fabric I am considering Butterick 6140.

[spacer height=”20px”]

The bottom one is an “Italian Donna Karen Sunshine Wool Double Cloth Crepe” whew try to say that one 3 times LOL it is also 100% Wool! For this coat I am considering this pattern Butterick 6255.

[spacer height=”20px”]

And lastly this pink fabric.. yes ma’am pink! This is a boiled wool I obtained from one of the Fabric Stores in the Garment District of NYC.. Let me tell you there is simply no other joy than shopping in about 50 different fabric stores in NY — with my favorite being Mood! The wool guys there know me by name LOL I love visiting them and seeing Swatch as well!

[spacer height=”20px”]

All of these fabrics can be used for just about any coat you can use fusible interfacing or non fusible. Because of the weights I am not sure if Hair Canvas would work with these.. While the fabric is warm it’s not very heavy.. I would need to drape the two and see how they would drape and feel.

[spacer height=”20px”]

We will speak more about Interfacing in Week 3

Next week we will talk about the pattern layout and should you create a muslin or not..

[spacer height=”20px”]

As I promised a big Surprise! In conjunction with Mood Fabrics I will be giving away a $100 gift card to their fabulous store!

[spacer height=”20px”]

How can you win! Fill out the raffle entry below following all the directions and ONE random winner is drawn in Week 3!

[spacer height=”20px”]

Here is the GiveAway!

[spacer height=”20px”]

Entry

-Form

[/box]

[spacer height="20px"]

Curvy Girls are Chic/ October 9, 2015October 16, 2015

Vogue 1467 Pea Coat Sew Along Sew Along

Hello Fam!

[spacer height=”20px”]

Its that time again to prepare for the Fall / Winter Seasons (2015)! Well I have already begun, I completed one coat last night Vogue 9136 in the most beautiful Chocolate wool/cashmere. Just need to find buttons and I will post that later.. The fabric I used is sampled below..

[spacer height=”20px”]

This will be my first time hosting MY OWN Sew Along – there are quite a few others doing this as well but I want to try my hand at this pattern.

[spacer height=”20px”]

I was looking for a traditional “pea coat” pattern for a while and I was uber excited when I saw this pattern V1467 in July designed by Ann Klein and distributed by Vogue Patterns ! My sew along will go through a few weeks of sewing this pattern with a final reveal of the coat and the pants which are contained within the pattern.

[spacer height=”20px”]

I have a schedule I set up, I will post a part of the Sew Along every Wednesday beginning October 15. Right now I have a schedule of about 7 Weeks.. My coat will be completed long before that but I just wanted to give everyone the opportunity to follow along as I create my coat!

[spacer height=”20px”]

Here is the schedule:

[spacer height=”20px”]

Week One 10/15 – All about Fabric Choices
Week Two – 10/22 – To Muslin or not Muslin / Pattern Layout and Cutting
Week Three – 10/29 – Notion, Interfacing, Notions, oh my!
Week Four – 11 /4 – Sewing the Coat Part – 1
Week Five – 11/11 – Sewing the Coat Part – 2
Week Six – 11/18 – Sewing the Coat Part – 3 and Finishing
Week Seven – 11/25 – The Big Reveal

[spacer height=”20px”]

Curvy Girls are Chic/ September 23, 2015October 26, 2015

Fabricmart Fabricista Week 2 Challenge — The DVF Wrap Dress

Congrats to me I made it through the first week of the challenge and now I am onto the second week!

This weeks challenge is to create a Diane Von Furtensberg (DVF) Wrap Dress – You can VOTE HERE

.. what inspires the wrap dress? The crossover style across the bodice that simple enhances any woman’s size and shape!

Yes! Its time to vote again! You can do it it here and there will be a link provided at the end of the photos…

[spacer height=”20px”]

Tell us about the project

[spacer height=”20px”]

Creativity – The DVF Dress like Chanel’s Little Black Dress at this time needs no inspiration! Both of these classic dresses create an attraction to just about any body size and shape! The DVF wrap dresses slenderizes where it needs to and brings a positive attention to the upper part of the body. The crossover bodice also gives a nice waistline especially when using the same fabric as the bodice for the waistband. Both fabrics are a silk jersey – the top print obtained from Metro Textiles and the bottom from one of Mood Fabrics specials.

[spacer height=”20px”]

Craftsmanship – While there is not much “creation” to the wrap dress there are some certain processes so there are no accidental spillages! I used McCalls M7185 the top of view D and extended it to long sleeves. I cut a 14 on the top using the cup D pattern pieces. I did not care for the full gathered bottom skirt so I used the bottom of Butterick 6030, which had no darts in the waist, just a bias cut skirt. I cut a 14 on this as well but it did turn out to be too big although I did create a self-facing for the front wrap. I wind up cutting it down two inches on each side and I think that is only because it’s a silk jersey cut on the bias. I created a small self-folded facing for the front wrap piece just to give it a neater look and I had stitched it down as well as hand stitched the hem which equaled to about 78 inches around! This fabric was very temperamental and a bit difficult to handle as it slid all over the place constantly! The top had a self-facing as well, under stitched and I slipstitched it to secure it down. I also added snaps to the bottom of sleeve in case I wanted to wear it more tapered. I also added snaps to the inside to keep the right side closed when it is tied. The sleeves are set-in and there are front darts and back darts in the bodice.

[spacer height=”20px”]

[spacer height=”20px”]
Fit – YES! I love this fit! I swayed away from wrap dresses for a while because they would “flap” open! Why because I was not too familiar with a FBA (Full-Bust adjustment) and I would always cut it bigger to “fit” Now that I found a D cup pattern there is no longer this issue! The fit is perfect, the bodice grades down to the waist and the front and back darts assist with slimming the waist to a perfect closure! I did make my skirt about two inches long in cocktail/midi length as that is the length I prefer for mostly all my skirts. I have one more wrap planned but the next will be a print bottom and a solid top and a maxi length.

[spacer height=”20px”]

BTW I made the cute clutch too and its for sale here

[spacer height=”20px”]

Vote Here for me in this weeks Challenge! Or visit the challenge blog here

[spacer height=”20px”]

Thanks so much for reading and support! I hope you like my dress *mauh*

[spacer height=”20px”]

Curvy Girls are Chic/ September 16, 2015September 16, 2015

Fabricmart Fabricista Week 1 Challenge — Handmade Do-Over

The Week One Fabricista Challenge is done and ready to vote!

We had to take a project that was a “fail” and re-do the project.. I choose a pair of culottes below to “do-over.”

Tell us about the project –

Culottes made a comeback this summer although they never left some fashionistas wardrobe. I like them because they are in between the length of shorts and pants and most look similar to an A-line skirt because of its drape. I purchased this black and white stripe fabric from Fabric Mart initially to create culottes and a blazer (an updated summer suit). When I received the fabric the stripe is horizontal vs vertical which I found challenging as the stripes when against the grain vs with the grain. So I decided to just create the culottes with Burda Pattern Burda Pattern 6812 I chose this pattern because they were not too wide or too slim.

Here is the situation: Initially when I took, the pattern out I said “these pattern pieces seem a small? I took my measurements against the pattern pieces and said hummm this says it will “fit” even with the ease. The one joy about sewing for yourself is you can fit before the garment is finished.. You can even stick one leg in one pants leg to see how it will go. Well yes, they “fit” but the fit is too tight! I also found it very challenging with the pockets, matching the stripe with the pocket yoke because a huge challenge.

[spacer height=”20px”]

Craftsmanship / Do Over – I decided that I did not need the pockets, the show through the white fabric and it is not very attractive. If you have white pockets in white pants, it should be done with “flesh-tone lining or fabric.” Therefore, I eliminated that. I took the pattern pieces and compared them to another similar pattern and for sure this pattern is many times too small. The size 14 was bigger on the McCalls then this Burda.. I digress I still used the same Burda pattern, recut the pieces, widened the hips, raised the back rise, and I also added belt loops in case I ever wear them with a tucked in blouse. I also changed the front pleats – initially these culottes had one pleat but I divided the pleat in half, added a pleat (for two pleats), and placed the pleats directly on a dominant stripe. I hemmed the pants with lace hem tape. The waistband and hemming were never completed in the first pair they just went to the corner of shame L

[spacer height=”20px”]

[spacer height=”20px”]

Fit – The pants fit much better, there is no cutting in the crotch area, it is not pulling in the rear area and I have room to move in the waist and the hips.

[spacer height=”20px”]

Vote for Me! Week 1 Challenge!